Using Google Blocks with Blender

Welcome! So you want to jazz up your Google Blocks pieces using this “Blender” thing everyone keeps going on about. You’re in the right place! Here, I’ll cover how to navigate Blender, import a Blocks piece, apply some nice textures, add some lights, and render a final piece. Note this this would work with any .obj file. I’ll only be doing the most basic steps today, without any advanced mapping or stuff like that. Let’s get started!


Installing and Navigating Blender

  • Download blender
  • Making the interface less overwhelming
  • Moving the camera

Importing your Blocks object

  • Finding your Blocks .obj
  • Importing the .obj
  • Render test
  • Saving


  • UV unwrap
  • Explaining materials, shaders, and textures
  • Applying materials

Lighting and setting

  • Background images
  • Positioning camera
  • Adding lights
  • Adding a nice object platform
  • Bonus: applying an advanced texture


  • Dimensions & Samples

Other resources

Installing & Navigating Blender

You can get the latest release of Blender free from their download page. Go ahead and install that, and open it up. Note that if you already know the basic of Blender and how to navigate, you can skip to the next section: “Importing your Blocks object”


Above is the start screen. Blender’s interface is notoriously cluttered, so let’s just take a minute make that less of a problem. Start by taking away the Timeline (very bottom) section, we don’t need that.

Just right click on the border between the two views and select “Join”. A grey arrow will appear, showing which panel will be closed, use your mouse to point it towards the Timeline view.

Alternatively, find the small grey icon that looks like three diagonal stripes in a corner (Circled in red above), and drag it from the panel you want to keep, to the panel you want to close. This can be finicky, though.

Note that you can also close menu bars (in green above). To get those back, look for the panel’s small grey “+” icon. To split a panel into 2, drag the diagonal corner icon inwards instead. To set a panel’s type, click the button circled in yellow, and select from the drop-down box.  Finally, go and collapse all the sub-menus around (Like the ones in Blue above). I also like to right-click on the very bottom menu bar, and select “Flip to Top”. Hopefully you’ll get something like this:


That’s not so bad, right? Let’s do a really quick render test. At the very top select “Cycles render” (Red circle). This is to say that we’re using Blender’s “Cycles” render engine, which will give us some great features later. Hit your F12 key, and an image of the cube should appear. Nice, your first render! To exit the result back to the previous view (3D View), press your escape key.

Next, right-click on the cube to select it, and press your Delete key to delete. This gives us a nice blank slate to work with. (Quick note: for the next few screenshots I have “Blender Render” selected. It should be “Cycles Render”. My bad!)

Real quick note on moving the view: You can set a central focus point by left-clicking anywhere. To rotate around that point, hold your middle mouse button and move. To pan around, hold your shift key while holding the middle button and moving. If you accidentally grab and move something with right-click, just right-click again, and it’ll bound back to where it was. Zoom with the scroll wheel. Undo an action with Ctrl-Z, and undo the undo with Shift-Ctrl-Z.

OK, that’s pretty much all you need to know to get started!

Importing your Blocks object

It’s always best to make a copy of the piece you’re working on, and using that, so that the original is safe. To find your piece, go to /user/Documents/Blocks, and either Models or OfflineModels, depending on whether it’s saved locally, or in the cloud. In the folder, there’s a lot of randomly generated folder names. You’re going to have to search through every single one to find the one you want. Sorting by date can make this easier. Each folder has a thumbnail inside, so you can see which piece it is. Once you’ve found it, just copy the entire folder to your desktop. (Mine was called “zanxfs”!)

Next, go to File -> Import -> Wavefront(.obj), navigate to your desktop, and into the folder you just copied. Hit “Import” in the top right of the screen, and you should see your model in the 3D view.


Your model might not be facing the right way, so we’ll just adjust it to face the camera. Find the area circled in red below, and click on the curved arrow, which is rotation. The first straight arrow just moves the object around.

Note the “Global” option. This means that the movement guides (Seen below on the model) will stay orientated relataive to the main world, no matter which way the object points. There is also Local, which is opposite of that. For now, we’ll use Global.

To rotate the model, click and drag the blue circle. You can also rotate using theother two axis if you want. We need it to face the camera (That black square cone with the triangle above it). To make sure the orientation is now fine, just hit F12 for another render.


The result will be an OK image, but pretty dim, and with no real other imporvment over the original. But it’s a start! Exit the preview with your Escape key when you’re ready. If you want to save a render, click on the bottom left “Image” text, and “Save a Copy”.


Now’s a great time to save your project. So go File-> Save As, and navigate to your desktop. It’s a good idea to make a new folder for it, to keep everything like textures organized. Give it a name, and click “Save as Blender file”. If the top bar of the Blender window shows a path to your project, you’re good. To test this, close Blender, go to the .blend file in your desktop folder, and click it. Note that you might still be in render view when it opens, so if all you see is a grey blank space, just hit Escape to exit back to the 3D View.


Here’s the interesting part. Blocks saves the .obj with a “materials.mtl” file, which tells Blender which colours various parts of the model should be. If you’re happy with that, and don’t want to add any textures or other materials, you can skip ahead to the “Lighting” section. It’s really not always necessary to use textures, you can just throw on some emissives or glossy surfaces, add some light, and it’ll still look phenomenal. In fact, a lot of low-poly stuff does look a lot better without image textures! Check out Sideline Media’s logo, for example. No image textures, just some lights and glows. But that’s not what this guide is all about!

Since we’re going to be using custom texture images, we have to “UV unwrap” the model. This is super easy:

  1. In 3D view, select the model with right-click (It’ll get a orange outline), and select Edit mode. This will open up a different sidepanel.
  2. Look at the left tabs, and select “Shading/UVs”. Under UVs, click “Unwrap”, and select “Smart UV Project”. Keep the default settings in the pop-up, and hit OK. You can now apply image textures.


Right, time to change our layout a bit. I’ve removed the side menu we just used by dragging its border all the way to the left, and then duplicated the 3D view (Orange) by grabbing the three-diagonal lines icon in it’s top right corner downwards. Then make the resulting top view (Green) a “Node editor” by clicking on the view’s type button (Circled in purple) and selecting Node View from there. Note that the button to press will actually be along the top first, then move to the bottom, like in the picture, when the view is changed.

Finally, I dragged the side panel to the right a bit larger. I clicked on “Model 001” (light blue) and then selected the “Materials” tab (also circled in blue, looks like a black and orange circle).


Here’s how textures and materials work. (And this gets a bit long, but bear with me!)

Any of the faces on a model can be assigned a material. A material will generally contain a shader of some sort. A shader is basically an effect you apply to the face. An emissive shader will glow, and a glass shader will be transparent.

There are many shaders, but the most common one is a diffuse shader. This is a basic effect you can apply to a surface, that simply realistically reflects some light. You can set it’s roughness to chane the look. The nice thing about a diffuse shader is that it can link to images, like a brick texture, and it’ll automatically apply the texture to a surface, and appropriatly take care of  interaction with light.

Overwhelmed? Let’s look at creating an example texture:

  1. Create a new blank material by clicking the “+” symbol next to the materials list. If there’s any materials already there, they came with the .obj from Blocks. Just ignore them.
  2. Click on the “new” button that appears. This will actually apply a material, and assign a standard diffuse shader.
  3. Give this material a name. Call it “Example Material”.


The node view we opened just now will have two nodes loaded (By the way, you can zoom in and out in this view, pan around by holding the mouse scroll wheel, and move nodes around). The material output is the final result, but it needs something to show on its surface. So Blender linked a default diffuse shader. This one is white, but it can be any colour, and you can change the roughness of the material (how it reflects light) by either clicking on the bar and dragging sideways, or typing a value yourself. That’s it, if you apply this material to a face (next), that face is going to be a white, fairly reflective surface!


But we want more. Notice the flow: The diffuse’s BSDF (light refraction value) exit point plugs into the “surface” entry point. Anything with a coloured dot can be changed with a node. Here, we change the output’s surface to whatever is in the diffuse. (Generally only dots of the same colour can plug together, with some exceptions)

Notice the yellow dot next to the colour option on diffuse. That means that the colour can be substituted for something from another node. So let’s replace the white colour with an image. Click Add -> Texture -> Image Texture. The new node is attached to your mouse, so move it to the left of the Diffuse node, and let go.


Use the “Open” button to navigate to a texture you’ve saved. There are great websites where you can get free textures, like here: or here . If you’re using google, it helps to search for “Repeating texture”, those tend to wrap around objects pretty well. High resolutions ones are good for large objects, but small objects tend to shrink the texture down to fit, meaning you’ll lose detail. Play around with different image sizes.

Once you’ve found your file, simply drag from the yellow colour slot on the image node to the yellow colour slot on the diffuse node, and that’s now the texture you’ll see if you apply it to a surface. So let’s do that next!


Applying textures

First, we’re going to select the surface to apply a material to. Go to your 3D view, right-click to select your model, switch from Object Mode to Edit mode, and activate “Face select”, as opposed to point or edge select (circled in red). Once you’re here, you can select a face with right-click, and it’ll turn orange. To select multiple faces, you can hold Ctrl while clicking, or hold Ctrl while clicking on a selected face to unselect it. You can still freely rotate the camera while selecting. Be sure to set the focus point with left-click on the area you’re going to be selecting to make rotation easier.

Tip: If you select a face, you can select adjacent faces with “Ctrl num+”, or unselect adjacent faces with “Ctrl Num-“. Blocks is really good with this, as it’ll save info about individual shapes in a model with the .obj. This is very useful for selecting an entire section, like the entire top half of my robot (Which you might remember was one single piece in Blocks):


With everything still selected, go to the materials tab, select our example material, and click “Assign”. (By the way, expand the “Preview” option under the assign button to see what your texture will look like) To see your texture on the model, click on the icon that looks like a white ball in the menu bar, and select “Material”. You should now see the texture on your selected faces:


Here’s something cool: Split one of the panels (I selected the far right one), and make the new bottoms one a 3D view. Then press Shift-Z, and it’ll show you a live preview of what your render will look like! Then press 0 on your numpad to get the camera’s view. This is useful to have around, as it’ll reflect changes to your final render as you make them. You can see the render preview view in the next image.

Hmm… that’s not a very nice texture, so I can change it by selecting a different image. I chose a red pattern instead, and renamed the material accordingly.

As a sidenote, if you want the render to be a bit brighter, go to Lamp in the explorer, then the Lamp tab, then the Nodes property, click the “Use Nodes” button, and you can then change the lamp’s intensity. More on that later, but for now, it’s a way to see progress better.


OK, so now you just move through your model, selecting the faces you want to texture, and making/assigning good materials! Here’s some more material examples you can use:

Emissive – These are great for atmosphere. They shine light, which gets cast onto other parts of the model. Just replace the defuse shader with an emissive shader (from Add Node) in a new material, and play with the intensity until the preview window shows what you want. Don’t worry if it’s grainy, that’s normal, because it’s not simulating the entire render, just a basic preview. The image I have below is a full render, just so you can see the effect it has:


Glossy – Make a new material. Add a node, look under Shaders for “Glossy BDSF”. Plug that into the Materials Output node, and you have a glossy surface, with tunable roughness. Make it more interesting by adding an image texture, see below how it reflects the emissive and the surrounding red material:


There are a lot of materials to play with, and a lot of ways different nodes can interact and enhance each other. For example, I haven’t even gone into Maps, which are easy to use, but hard to explain. Check out this excellent video by BlenderGuru for more details.

OK, I’m done texturing! Next, we’ll set up the scene.


Lighting and setting

Final stretch! Let’s set up a nice shot, and finish up the atmosphere. First, a background. The very best thing to use is a high quality HDR 360 image, but those are hard to find. You can use any image, but know that it’ll be zoomed a lot, and might be stretched, so you’ll have to compensate (i.e. by using a really high resolution image). Here’s how:

First, navigate to the World properties to the right. Go to Surface, and click on the Use Nodes button. This will let you select “Background” for a surface, and use an environment texture just like an Image texture. Check out the render preview, and position your piece so that you like it. Then, see if there are any light sources in the image, and if there are, try to emulate that with your main lamp by going into Object Mode, selecting it with right-click, and then moving it around like you would a model. Below was my first try:


But this looked a bit off. So I changed it up:


Better! Above are some of the camera settings. We don’t really use these here, except for the focal length (how zoomed it is) and toggling a line to show where it’s pointed.

There are two main types of light. There’s a Spotlight, which shines in a specific direction only, and a Sun, which shines in every direction. To place a light, bring up the sidebar from a 3D view, and look down in the “Create” tab (See yellow circles below). These are bright, so you only have to set the brightness up a small amount (4, in my case) in the “Light” properties tab, circled in dark blue. You can move suns like anything else, using the positioning tools (Red circle).

Below are the settings for a sun I positioned be behind the droid, emulating that big blue window.


I also have two spotlights to the droid’s sides, that’s just to provide some fill for the shadows. However, spotlights are a lot dimmer, so I set their strengths to around 4000 and 6500. Check out the circles areas to see the difference, the droid is more central, and the midsections isn’t lost to the background as much:


Go and mess around with adding lights, tweaking their brightnesses and positions, and see what happens! Tip: It helps to set the positioning tool to “Local” instead of “Global” for this.

OK, one last thing. I don’t like that random green cube, so I’ve went to the 3D view’s sidebar’s, and added a cylinder under the create tab. I moved that into position under the droid, selected the droid, went into edit mode, selected all the cube’s faces, and hit the delete key.


Then I made it a cone, applied a basic glossy shader with a scratched bronze image texture, and hit render:


Bonus – Super quick bit on advanced textures

It looked super flat to me, so I’m taking this opportunity to quickly show you what real texturing looks like (Although bear in mind I didn’t play around with this much, so it’s still pretty low-res and unrefined):


That’s more like it. Basically, instead of just adding the one image texture, I use three. The original image gives colours, sure, but it’s just a flat, smooth image, not at all the old metal look I was going for. So I made two copies, and fired up Paint.NET.

The first image below is the normal image, providing the colour info.

The second is the bump map. It’s in greyscale, because blender will interpret black as a dents or cervices, and white as raised bumps. So the dark cuts will give the surface actual definition.

The third is the reflection map (or specularity map), this tells Blender which parts are shiny, and which parts are not. So I tweaked the image some more, because here, the light values will mean reflection, and the dark values no reflections (there are no reflections in a small dark dent, after all).

Again, I would absolutely recommend this video on the topic.



This is it! Let’s take a look at the Rendering tab (In yellow):


The dimensions are pretty simple. You can select from a bunch of presets, like 1080 or 720, or you can make your own. You should also turn on border, it’ll stop the preview from rendering anything outside the camera zone, saving on CPU power.

The important part is found under Sampling. There are two render Samples values (Orange): The higher one will be used for the final render, and the lower one for the previews. Lower values are quicker, but not as clean, you’ll notice a lot more light artifacts, or “fireflies”. I like to set it to 720p and 50 samples, and when I render the final piece, 1080p and around 1500 samples, but if your PC is not designed for that, start at 500, and work your way up if you think you need to. However, if you reach about 1000 and still see artifacts, try setting the “Clamp Indirect” value to 3, that should help.

When you’re done texturing, positioning lights, and tweaking the rendering settings, go ahead and press F12! It’ll automatically render in the biggest open view, and if you used a large samples value, it’ll take a few minutes, so get up and stretch your legs. When it’s done, don’t forget to save the image! Below is a 2K render.


You’re done!

Good job, you’ve completed your first Blender to Blocks render! There’s a real rabbit hole of things to learn about, and it’s pretty addictive. For example:

  • Check out nice atmospheric lighting, with volumetric fog and visible light rays here.
  • Experiment with ambient occlusion.
  • Mixing shaders (Called PBR textures) for really cool effects.

And here are some resources to go check out:


Thanks for sticking it out, and go have some fun rendering!


Curious Droid build log/workflow example

Here we’ll cover how to build a little robot in Google Blocks. It’ll be a demonstration of how to use the tools, and will document the process from start to finish. To check out the completed project, click here. OK, lets begin!


The Feet & Legs

Sure, let’s start here (Note that these first few pictures will have more than one object, that’s just a copy of the current active object to visualize the flow easier. In Blocks, I only use one foot until I’m done, then I clone and flip it). Zoom out as far as you can, because you’re going to want to make the biggest major components you can, to be able to zoom in far later to add small details. I’m using a grid, and figured I’d make the feet about 4 major units wide. Then I play around with some subdivision until I can kind of see how the block is going to have to change to make a foot. Below is the what that looks like:Blocks 2017-07-15 00-50-21-07

After reshaping the block into something roughly what I’m looking for, I notice that it added some extra edges. No worries, that’s just how it needs to bend. Next, I add another rectangle for some toe-like object. See how I start with just the block, but use the subdivide tool to add vertices, and then move those around:Blocks 2017-07-15 00-51-19-14

Behold, a foot! Kinda. I selected both parts and grouped them, just to be able to move the entire thing around easily. I also added a sphere and two legs. I used two cylinders simply so I’ll be able to “bend” that knee later:Blocks 2017-07-15 00-52-39-37

It’s not really obvious here, but I added a bit of bend to the leg by selecting all the edges of the cylinder’s top, and dragging that to the side. The leg on the left is straight, while the one on the right is bent:Blocks 2017-07-15 00-55-14-87

OK, I officially made a clone of the leg, and positioned them where I want them. To add some detail, I added two spheres to the ends of the horizontal cylinders below, using the support trigger to position them absolutely center:Blocks 2017-07-15 01-23-58-53

But there’s a catch. When adding spheres, for some reason it’s not always exactly central You may have noticed the extra edges above, that’s a result of the fix. See below. The right part has a slight irregularity around the join, which is subtle, but goes all the way around, and can be distracting. Especially if you’re going to work with a lighting engine later, it can be greatly enhanced. So just go all the way around, and join the two points:Blocks 2017-07-15 01-18-39-82

The Torso

Again, started with a block, and a few subdivisions later, we have about half of a torso. Because there’s no mirror mode (I really wish there was a mirror mode) I use block shapes as rulers to figure out how far I have to extend parts:Blocks 2017-07-15 01-48-06-59

Here’s a tip: Often a triangle face will have unnecessary edge, and thus an extra face. To delete that, just add another edge, and drag the new point to a corner on the triangle. See below, I added the edge between the green circles via subdivision, and dragged it to the top-right triangle corner. This took away the extra face, like on the left side. There used to an extra edge where the red line is now:Blocks 2017-07-15 01-43-41-90

Using extrude to add some shoulder plates, because it means no accidental faces. I also make the blocks a darker colour; it’s easier to see faces and edges that way:Blocks 2017-07-15 02-31-48-73

The half-dome for the rest of the chest was tricky. I used the Stroke tool to make a single 10-sided shape, and then overlayed a sphere (partially visible in the left half on the image). This gave me reference for where the edges should be. Then I just extruded the shape, making it smaller to match the sphere’s edges, until I had what I wanted (see right side):Blocks 2017-07-15 05-11-53-42

The eye was similar. Started with a flattened cube, subdivided the sides, and reformed it into a circle. I could have used Cylinder, but I wanted less sides. Then, I just extruded in and out with resizing to make the shapes. The image shows this progression:eye

I’m quite proud of the hands. They were pretty complex, so I won’t go into detail, but a finger is a cube extruded multiple times, with the edges curved slightly.Blocks 2017-07-15 06-58-23-04

Final Touches

Then, I just had to put all the pieces together. The arms were basically the legs again, and I added some eyebrows and an antennae, just for fun. Positioning it like on the left is good for starting, but you have to turn off grid mode and just eyeball it to actually position the limbs. Again, make sure to group individual feet, hands, the torso, etc. Make sure the arms are coming out of the center of the spheres in relation to where the arms actually are. For example, see the first image’s arm socket, compared to the final image’s. Finally, I added a splash of colour, and I was ready to hit “Save” and “Publish” in the support controller’s menu!Finalpub


To the right is a browser page that will open up when you hit Publish. This is also where your files are stored, so be careful about deleting stuff. Clicking the publish button will give you the screen below, where you can add a title and a description to your creation. You can also change the background colour and thumbnail under the “Presentation” tab. For example, I made mine blue, because the yellow was a bit too much.


That’s it!

Congratulations, we now have a cute little robot! It’s out there for the world to see, and hopefully you’ve gotten some good practice at using some of the tools Blocks has to offer. If you want to really spice up your final piece, why not try adding some good lighting and textures in Bender? I’ll have a tutorial up soon that’ll be an absolute-beginner’s guide to using Blocks in Blender’s “Cycles” rendering engine.

Hope to see you there!

Google Blocks basics

Here we’ll cover how to use Google Blocks. It really is quite simple, but there are a few neat hidden tricks. We’ll take a look at the different tools, and some of their quirks.




Your left controller is the support controller, and the right is the drawing controller. You can switch these by bumping the top tips of the controllers against each other. To move the world, grab with either of the grip buttons (red, under the controller). To rotate, hold and turn with both sides’ grip buttons. You can scale the piece by moving your hands closer together and further apart.





This is your basic tool to place a shape. Swipe your thumb to the left/right to select different simple shapes to place, and up/down to increase or decrease the size of that object. A single trigger push will place an object, but you can also press and hold it to stretch a shape as you place it, like making an oblong out of a sphere, or a rectangle out of a cube. Note that you can also position a new shape onto the surface of an old one: Hold support trigger while placing a new shape over the other, and it’ll snap into place. It’ll also center the new shape, useful when (for example) placing a ball right on the end of a cylinder for a rounded end. To place a coloured shape, flip support around, and select from there before placing.


This tool changes your shapes’s appearance in three ways. You can:


Reshape (push thumb up) – Lets you grab a corner (point), line (edge), or side (face, pictured). Once grabbed, you can freely move it around. If a new location is invalid, you’ll hear an error sound. To delete a point or edge, just drag it into another point or edge, and it should vanish.  You can also hold the support trigger before/while moving faces to make them move straight outwards from their original orientation. For example if you want to elongate a cube into a rectangle. To select multiple faces at once, hold the trigger button while the controller is away from a face, and move it through the faces you want to select. Then, release the trigger and move them like you would normally. This also works on edges or points. Selected sections will glow green.


Subdivide (push thumb left) – Splits a face in half, giving you more sides to a shape to play with. If you hold the support trigger, the line will automatically snap, depending on your main controller orientation. This can let you divide a face into exactly 2 equal halves, or quarters, or from one corner to another precisely. Very useful when trying to add some more complex shapes. Note that while you can create edges, there is currently no way to delete them without dragging them directly on top of another edge.

extrudeExtrude (push thumb right) – Extruding a face means pulling it out into a new segment. So you can extrude a cube into a rectangle, but it’ll leave edges along the extrusion point. Since this adds on a bit of shape, you can’t extrude inwards, use the Reshape tool for shrinking shapes. Just like the reshape tool, you can select multiple faces to extrude, and hold the support trigger to extrude perpendicularly. You can also resize the extrusion (pictured): before releasing the new face, swipe your thump up or down to change size. For example, making a sharp point on one end of a cylinder, or giving it a flared base.


Use this tool to add some colour and life to your model. Flip your support around, and select a paint colour. Swipe left to paint an entire shape, and right to paint individual faces. Most of the colours are solid, but the bottom right option is a transparent glass, and the last one is a funky crystal look.


This tool lets you draw in 3D space to get a long “string” of a shape. Swipe your thumb for different brush shapes (from a triangle to a decagon). Like Extrude, you can make a brush point smaller or bigger by swiping your thumb up or down. You can also lock the brush on a flat plane. Hold support trigger before you begin drawing, and depending on how you were holding the controller, you’ll draw only on that plane until you release the support trigger. You can hold it again to continue drawing on a different plane, but I found that to be super finicky. Additionally, if you start with a single main trigger press, you can draw a straight line to another point in space by moving your main controller there, and clicking the trigger again. Or, press the red button on your main controller face to add a new anchor, but continue drawing another line from that new anchor. For example, if you wanted to draw a spiral, you’d use the red button to make the bends and just draw it out in 3D space. Not easy to explain in words, but give it a shot! You’ll get it quickly 🙂


This tool has several functions, but at it’s base, you can grab and move shapes around with it. If you want to move several shapes at once, hold the trigger button in empty space, and move it through the shapes you want to move. Release, and move them like you would a single shape. To resize shapes, grab them, and move your thumb up or down. Note that this will only work up to a point. To clone something, hover in the shape with your controller, and swipe your thumb left. For example, copying/pasting a bunch of apples. To flip a shape, swipe right. To group shapes, press the red button on the face of your main controller (grouped objects turn slightly transparent when grabbed, pictured). This lets you move/resize multiple objects, and is useful for when you want to keep, for example, a tree or car together to move around without having to select every element of the piece first. To ungroup, just press the red button again when holding the group.


Very simple. Erases a shape. Note that if erasing a group, all shapes in the group will be erased.



Reference images


To import reference images, hit the red face button on your support controller, select “settings” at very top left, and then “Add reference image”. A cool feature is that using the grab tool, you can actually move and rezise the images like you would a shape. Unfortunately, reference images should be imported at the start of every session, they do not save with the sculpt.



Incredibly useful. When toggled, you’ll see a matrix of dots around your tool. Shapes you place and points/edges/faces you edit will now snap to these points automatically. Scaling the image up and down toggles 4 levels of magnification for the grid (pictured). Allows for precise and angular shapes, like robots or buildings.


And that’s it. Now go jump in, and start creating!